Here is a selection of terms commonly used within this website and on the Company Facebook group.
Solid fabric shapes, cut out and sewn down neatly on a fabric ground, sometimes with additional embellishment.
Embroidery in the style of the Bayeux ‘Tapestry'(Embroidery), worked in a wool, usually on a linen ground, using a limited palette of colours. Shapes are filled in with long stitches, held down with perpendicular rows of self-couching. In use from 9th c.
General tem for a number of styles common in 16thC England, Germany and Spain, including counted and free-for, double-running (Holbein work), counted work in-fill patterns and speckle stitch. Usually worked in black silk, but gold, red, blue etc are also known.
A pre-1600 term for bobbin lace, so called because the bobbins were made of bone.
A surface woven stitch, common in Elizabethan embroidery.
A form of polychrome counted work, where the stitches are stepped like bricks.
A main thread or threads create the design on the ground fabric, held down using small stitches in silk. The main method of applying gold thread.
Fabric with the same number of threads in the warp and weft. The count (eg 28 count) refers to the number of threads per inch.
Used to stretch the ground fabric taut, so that the embroidery lies flat. Period frames were rectangular, with the ground fabric or backing attached by whipping over the bars or though holes drilled in them. Essential for metal threads. Hoops are a simple modern frame.
The fabric on which the embroidery is worked.
Embroidery using couched gold threads – passing thread, jap, purl, twist, plate, etc
A form of applique, where the shape is placed into an identical hole in the ground fabric and the two joined with small overcast stitches.
“Japanese Gold” Flat gold wound around a core of silk. Imitation jap is made with fake gold.
“Cloister stitch” or “nun’s work”. A version of couching where the thread is laid over the surface then couched down using the same thread.
Brand name for a low-twist silk thread, used in many Company projects because it is readily available (less so these days, so we might reconsider for future projects).
Lochac Order of Grace. An awards given within the Kingdom of Lochac.
“English work” c 1250 – 1350.Linen or velvet background richly covered with detailed figures in silk split stitch and laid gold (underside couching). Usually used for ecclesiastical work.
“German work”. Outlines with fill stitches using linen thread on linen ground and a combination of darning, drawn work, etc. May be whitework or coloured.
“Shaded gold”. Gold threads are laid to completely cover the background. The gold is couched down with coloured silk so the these threads create the design of colour over the gold, set closer and further to give depth of colour.
A fine flexible metal thread with a slight texture, wrapped around a core, which can be sewn through the ground fabric. Used for plaited braid stitch etc.
“Many colours” Embroidery worked in multicoloured (silk) threads
A type of metal thread made like a miniature spring. It may be couched down or cut into pieces and sewn down like beads.It comes in smooth, purl (coarser) and check (crimped) styles.
Period term for sequin, made by winding wire into a coil, cutting into links and then flattening to produce a ring. Also called Oes or Owes.
Backstitch which pierces the previous stitch, making a single fine line.
A form of couching where metal threads are laid on a loose linen background, with the linen couching thread pulled tight to form tiny loops on the underside. This technique is durable, flexible, rich textured and requires considerable skill.
Worshipful Company of Broderers of Lochac.