The following article was written by Mistress Rowan Perigrynne to provide background documentation for the Worrhipful Company of Broiderers.

Designs for the Lochac Order of Grace

The Lochac Order of Grace was established while Lochac was still a Principality and was retained by the new Kingdom. The award is given only once each reign to that person whom Their Majesties find most gracious amongst Their subjects. The device of the award is “Gules, a hart courant Or between three mullets of six points argent”, registered to the Kingdom of Lochac. The emblazon is shown to the right.

The token of the order is a favour or pouch bearing this device. Since the inception of the Order, there has been no traditional method of sourcing these pouches or favours, so many recipients of the LOG have never received a physical token. The Worshipful Company of Broiderers has offered to repair this omission by presenting a supply of pouches for past and future recipients.

Since the Company strives for historical accuracy, it is important that the designs of the pouch, the materials and the embroidery style are all historically accurate. Since the recipients come from many times and places, it would be nice to provide a range of pouch designs to suit the various personae.

Accordingly, I have researched a set of 7 designs, covering a range of times, places and embroidery styles. The following links (when clicked on) will load a two page file, containing background, materials list, construction guide and pattern for that particular period/styles LOG Pouch. The files are in PDF format. If you do not have a PDF reader installed, you can download Adobe Acrobat Reader (for Windows 10) via this link. If you are using another operating system, such as an older version of Windows, iOS or Android, use this link instead.

With the exception of the Viking pouch, the pouches are all of the drawstring style. The drawstring pouch was in use by both men and women throughout our period, so the style is universally applicable. Many other pouches or purses were also in use, but most of these were made of leather and were not embroidered.

General instructions for making a drawstring pouch are given in each document, with variations for gender and time where applicable.

LoG Pouch Instructions

Viking Chain Stitch
Anglo-Saxon Couched and Laid
13th Century Applique
14th Century Split Stitch
15th Century Brick Stitch
16th Century Goldwork
16th Century Tent Stitch/Detached Buttonhole

LoG Pouch Examples

Here are some examples of pouches completed by the Company and presented to Their Majesties each Midwinter and Twelfth Night, to be given to the recipients of the Lochac Order of Grace.

Elizabethan tent stitch – Rowan Perigrynne

Elizabethan tent stitch slip – Jane Stockton

Anglo-Saxon Goldwork – Jane Stockton

Anglo-Saxon Laid and Couched Work – Jane Stockton (worked in hand spun wool with bone needle)

Anglo-Saxon Laid and Couched Work – Jane Stockton

Pouches by the Shire of Darton

German Brickstitch – Marienna Jansdattir

Viking Same (coiled metal) – Marienna Jansdattir

Viking Woolwork – Robyn of the May

Instarsia – Contarina la Bianca

Bibliography

Bain, George Celtic Art: The Methods of Construction Book IV – Zoomorphics William Maclellan (Embryo), Glasgow, 1982
Beck, Thomasina Gardening with Silk and Gold Reader’s Digest, Devon, 1997
Beck, Thomasina The Embroiderer’s Flowers David & Charles, Devon, 1992
Bise, Gabrielle (Tr J Peter Tallon) The Hunting Book by Gaston Phoebus, Regent Books, London, 1987-1984
Bologna, Giulia Illuminated Manuscripts Weidenfield & Nicholson NY, 1988
Brid, Harriet and Druny, Elizabeth Needlework: An Illustrated History, Paddington Press, 1978
Brown, Michelle P Understanding Illuminated Manuscripts J Paul Getty Museum/British Library, 1994
Cavallo, Adolph S Needlework Cooper-Hewitt Museum, USA, 1979
Clabburn, Pamela Masterpieces of Embroidery Phaiden Press, Oxford, 1981
Crowfoot, Elizabeth, Pritchard, Francis & Staniland, Kay Textiles and Clothing c1150 – c1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in : 4) HMSO, London, 1992
Digby, George Wingfield Elizabethan Embroidery Faber & Faber, London, 1963
Egan, Geoff and Pritchard, Francis Dress Accessories c1150 – c1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London: 3) HMSO, London, 1991
Fox-Davies, A C A Complete Guide to Heraldry Bonanza Books, NY, 1909. Reprinted 1978
Harris, Jennifer (ed) 5000 Years of Textiles British Museum Press, London, 1993
Levick, Ben Christian Clothing – Men’s Clothing http://www.angelcynn.org.uk/clothing_christian_male.html
Mitchell, Timothy J A Stitch out of Time http://www.flash.net/~wymarc/asoot/stitch/cover.htm
Museum of London London Museum Medieval Catalogue, Anglia Publishing, Suffolk, 1940 Reprinted 1993
Priest-Dorman, Caroline Viking Embroidery Stitches and Motifs http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/vikembroid.html
Priest-Dorman, Caroline Viking Embroidery http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/asvembroid.html
Regia Angolorum Publications Monastic Life http://www.regia.org/church4.htm
Shorleyker, R A Shole-house for the NeedleShorleyker, London, 1624. Reprinted as Microfilm Ann Arbor, Michigan: University Microfilms International, 1986 (Early English Books, 1475-1640; 1155:01).
Speirs, Gill & Sigrid Quemby A Treasury of Embroidery Designs Colporterns Press, Balmain, 1985
Staniland, Kay Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers, British Museum Press, London, 1991
Wark, Edna Metal Thread Embroidery Kangaroo Press, Kenshurst, 1989
Wilson, David The Bayeaux Tapestry Thames & Hudson, London, 1985